Alocasia Black Velvet is a striking and exotic-looking plant that has an interesting history. It was originally discovered in the jungles of Madagascar, but it can also be found in Southeast Asia.
This is one of the most popular types of Alocasia plants because it has a unique look and grows well indoors.
In terms of size and requirements, it’s an ideal indoor plant with breathtaking gorgeous leaves and is ideal for people who prefer to go indoors.
In this article, I am going to give you some tips on how to care for your Alocasia Black Velvet!
Alocasia Black Velvet likes to grow in bright light and it is a good idea to place them near an east- or west-facing window, but not so close that the plant gets too hot. They also require shade from the sun when they are exposed for prolonged periods of time.
For best results, you should provide your Alocasia Black Velvet access to more direct sunlight during the winter months because this helps stimulate their growth. It’s important to note that Alocasia plants don’t like any sudden changes in temperature or humidity levels, which means if there is going to be some change coming up then you need to make sure your potting mix has proper drainage as well as excellent water retention. I recommend using sphagnum moss or regular potting soil.
The Black Velvet plants are hardy and can survive in a variety of environments but they need consistent moisture. Make sure to water the soil thoroughly when it’s dry, not just giving them an occasional drink here or there.
A typical potting mix for an Alocasias Black Velvet is about 50% coarse sand or perlite; 25% peat moss; 20% leaf mold or composted forest litter like oak leaves and pine needles; 15% sphagnum moss or other similar moss; and a handful of dolomite limestone for pH adjustment.
In order for them to survive, they need consistent moisture; anything below 50% humidity will cause their leaves and stems to shrivel up quickly. The Alocasia Black Velvet can handle altitudes between 0-1000 meters and temps between 25 degrees Celsius (77 degrees Fahrenheit) all the way down to 19°C(66 °F).
Alocasia plants prefer temperatures around 68 degrees Fahrenheit (20° Celsius) but can handle higher or lower temps for short periods of time. Extremely high heat, however, will cause their leaves to turn yellow and fall off so if you have a chance monitor your alocasias’ leaf color when it’s hot outside.
If they start getting too much sun then move them into indirect light or shade until the weather cools down again. Likewise, even though Alocasia likes it humid, most people find that extreme cold is not good for them either because these tropical plants aren’t used to long winters in temperate climates where frost tends to happen every year. It’ll slow their growth considerably and may even kill them.
One of the most important parts of growing an Alocasia is fertilizing. As long as you’re using a good fertilizer, they can grow in just about any light condition and thrive even with little water or nutrients. If your plant has been neglected for too long, it may take some time to get it back into shape; this process usually takes between three months and two years depending on how much neglect there was.
Alocasia plants are heavy feeders and will profit from a good fertilization regime. They need regular, frequent feeding with high-nitrogen fertilizer such as fish emulsion to produce the best foliage texture. Even if you’re not using any supplementary fertilizers, your Alocasia will still do well in outdoor environments where they get plenty of natural nitrogen from soil bacteria breaking down organic matter into nitrates that can be absorbed by plant roots.
Alocasia, like other plants in the Araceae family, is a monocarpic perennial. This means that they will flower once (the main event) and then die from old age. It can take anywhere between three months to two years (depending on how much neglect there was), but most Alocasia flowers after about 18-24 months of growth. Flowering is caused by a floral stimulus during which stem elongation ceases abruptly and leaf production starts up again for the first time since before flowering began; this phase lasts usually only one day, or at best several days. The plant’s green color changes dramatically to reddish-brown with a whitish cast as chlorophyll levels decline to coincide with rising anthraquinones levels.
These plants have large root systems that need plenty of room to spread out so if you want them to live healthy lives and produce flowers then be sure to keep their roots contained in a pot at least 12 inches deep (30 cm). Additionally, these plants prefer soil that’s on the heavier side; a mix of sand and loam is ideal.
They are slow-growing plants, but they do eventually get big. If you want to propagate your plant then you can take cuttings from healthy leaves and root them in water for a few weeks before potting up the new plants outside or indoors.
Alternatively, if you’re feeling brave enough (and skilled) then give this rooting technique a try:
- Cut off an inch of the stem with four inches of leaf on top.
- Pull off all the roots from around it – Plant basal end into a composted soil mix that’s been moistened thoroughly first – Keep watered regularly until established; wait at least three months after planting to begin fertilizing.
The seeds are black, and they will need to be germinated on top of moist soil. The best time for planting is in the spring when the seedlings should have a chance at reaching maturity before winter sets in.
Make sure that there’s enough light available for them so they can grow correctly. If you plant outside then make sure it gets six hours or more of sun per day; this will help them develop their green leaves quickly after sprouting up from ground level and also prevent any fungal problems from cropping up later on down the line due to lack of sufficient sunlight exposure.
- Plant one inch deep with coverings left off (leaving an opening) – Keep evenly watered until established; wait until leaves are at least one or two inches before adding soil
- Thin to desired spacing once they’re established, if a weed problem arises you can apply mulch around them.
Deadhead any flowers that have died. Cut back the plant to a height you’re comfortable with. If it’s just starting out then this could be anywhere from two or three inches off of ground level; if it’s been around for a year and is more established then pruning up to six inches might make sense (but go no higher than twelve) as some plants in this category grow quite quickly during warm months, requiring frequent trimming throughout the summertime.
Keep an eye on foliage growth patterns: Alocasias black velvet has leaves that cascade down over themselves creating coverings, so they’ll need less pruning than say an upright herbaceous type weedy alocasia where you can see the entire stem.
Layering is another way to lower and control the height of a plant: when stems are cut back, new ones will grow in their place. This technique can be used on Alocasia black velvet for vertical interest or as an architectural feature where you want more than one specimen together but not at the same level.
Reasons why prune alocasias black velvet? – Improve air circulation and light access around foliage for better health / prevent leaf drop due to too much shade under the canopy (this is especially true if grown indoors).
Reduce the risk of rotting near the soil line from overwatering; leaves that sit below ground often have issues with fungus disease such as botrytis so it’s best to keep them above ground level. Reduce the height of the plant by removing top growth. Remove brown or dead leaves for a cleaner look and fresher appearance.
Shape plants to fit the desired form, such as making an Alocasia black velvet more upright by cutting off the long side shoots. Create a fuller canopy with multiple specimens in the same pot; use layering techniques to keep all heights at one uniform level.
Alocasias are a great choice for indoor and outdoor spaces alike. They offer lush foliage in various shapes and sizes, which is why they’re so popular with gardeners the world over! These plants are also well known for their lack of toxicity, making them safe to grow anywhere that’s accessible or available.
However, there may be times when you’ll need some alocasia plant information on how best to care for these houseplants – without harming yourself or your family members in the process.
One major contributor to this toxic-free status is the fact that many types of alocasia don’t produce any type of sap whatsoever; unlike other species like Philodendrons which are poisonous.
Alocasia varieties come in a variety of shapes and sizes, so choose the one that will work best for your particular needs!
You can also find some Aloisia to be toxic if they’re eaten by pets or humans because they have sap on their leaves (though this toxicity is very rare).
If you do find an alocasia type with sap-filled stems, then make sure to keep it away from any area where children are likely to play – and even consider wearing gloves when handling them at all times as well!
Pests and Disease
These plants are surprisingly pest-free, with the possible exception of aphids. This is largely due to the fact that many types don’t produce any sap whatsoever – unlike other species like Philodendrons which have been observed as poisonous if eaten by pets or humans.
If there’s a chance you’ll be handling your alocasia leaves and stems in order to water them regularly, then make sure to use gloves before touching these areas!
The only known disease-specific to this plant tends to occur when it has too much fertilizer because its roots tend not to absorb nutrients very well (simply cut back on fertilizing).
Aphid populations can also be kept at bay using an insecticidal soap spray. If you find ants, you can spray the areas of your plant where they’re entering using a product containing borax.